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In developing your "Hot Trader", there are several major decisions that need to be made early during the designing phase of your planning, such as:
I will briefly answer the above questions and a few others so that you can have a good outline to work from in ordering your pins. A key point to remember at this time is that, from the start of artwork to having the pins in your hands and ready for trading takes 3 to 5 weeks.
"Super Rush" orders in as little as 2 weeks are available. Please call for quote and delivery time.
There are major differences in all of the above types. First we will look at the two most popular types of pinsregular cloisonné and photo-etched pins. The first major difference between these two processes is cost, with photo-etched generally being 10% to 15% less expensive than cloisonné. A second major difference between cloisonné and photo-etched is that a much more intricate design can be photo-etched into the metal than can be die struck with the hard enamel process.
Which is better, "Hard Enamel" or Photo-Etched"? That is like asking which is better, a Ford or a Chevy, a Cadillac or a Lincoln. It is a matter of opinion. Many times the type of design you want will dictate the process used. If your design is a very detailed, intricate one with characters and lettering, you will want to look at using photo-etched pins. If you have a less complicated design, you may want to use the hard enamel (Cloisonné) process. It will become much more apparent as to why there is such a difference in design and cost as we take a look at how the two different major pin types are made. There are several other processes that can be used, but hard and soft enamel are the major processes.
Hard Enamel (Cloisonné) Pins The hard enamel process is begun by die-striking a design into a copper bronze metal surface that is 1-1.2mm thick. This is like putting a cookie cutter design into dough to make uniquely designed cookies. Separate cutting dies are then made and used to cut the exact outline of the design. Depending upon the intricacy of the design, several outside cutting dies may be required. If a center hole or cutout is required, an incising piercing die must also be used.
At this point in the construction process, each individual pin has had your design stamped into it and been die cut from the metal. As the Cloisonné colors are put onto your pin, each individual pin has to be handled. There are only 96 different Cloisonné colors that can be used in hard enamel pins versus over 900 colors and shades that can be used in photo etched pins. The first color is carefully placed in the appropriate walled-in area with a small spatula-like instrument. In order to color fill any part of a design, it must have a metal border, like banks of a river. Due to the smallness of some design elements, it may not be possible to color fill them. Therefore, those must be metal. The pin is then fired 2-4 minutes at 1600 degrees with a fire gun. Remember, they are handling each individual pin, not a group of pins. The second color is then hand laid in its respective area and fire gunned for 2-4 minutes at 1600 degrees. This is done for each color in the design, handling each individual pin for each color. This means that for an order of 500 hard enamel pins, with four colors in the design, it will require over 2,000 handlings to complete the order.
After each pin has been filled and fired with the appropriate colors, and the pins have cooled, each surface is individually finished by stoning with a carborundum stone until all excess Cloisonné has been ground down to the metal surface. The pins are then laid on a sheet of metal, similar to a cookie sheet, and put into an oven and refired at 1300 degrees to bring back the glossy appearance of the surface.
The back attachment is soldered onto each piece. Each pin is then hand tied with a fine copper wire and hung on a plating tree, which is then dipped into the gold or silver plating finish. The quality of plating depends upon the length of time each pin is submerged in the plating liquid. The plating adheres only to the metal surface. The final step is hand polishing each individual pin for a perfect finish.
As you can see, the making of hard enamel pins is very labor intensive because of having to handle each individual pin so many different times in the manufacturing process.
While both hard enamel and photo etching processes are performed by hand, photo etching differs from hard enamel in many respects. So, in helping you make your decision as to what process to use to make your "Hot Trader" let's take a look at "All you would ever want to know about photo etched pins."
Photo-etched PinsOne of the first major differences is in the color selection. Being able to more accurately select the color you want in photo etching instead of having to select a color that is close to the one you want from a Cloisonné chart can be very important in the final overall look of the pin. You can select your own color by going to a graphics store or a printing shop and asking them to see their Pantone Color Chart. Every color and shade of color in the Pantone Color Chart has a 3 or 4 digit number by it. Be sure to use the glossy color sheets with the "C" numbers, not the "U" numbers, which are for screen printing. When you send your drawing into Action Images you can be specific as to what color you want to use. For example, I use Pantone #485C-Red when I want a good cherry red color. Remember, in photo etching you can pick your own shades of color; do not let someone else do it for you. There is also a Web site for a Pantone color chart.
The next major difference is that a photographic negative, similar to the same type of negative you get when you use your own camera, is made of the design. These negatives are then made to the exact size of the pin design and they are laid out across the surface of the copper bronze metal that is going to be used, which is .8mm thick. There can be up to 100 or more negatives laid out on the metal surface. The metal is then dipped into a chemical solution which etches the image into the metal, forming depressions or excavations where color is to be put. Thus comes the name photo-etched design. Remember when learning to color in coloring books we were taught not to get outside the lines with our colors? The same is true in putting the colors into a photo-etched design. The excavations or depressions are carefully hand filled with wet enamel colors, the same color as in the Pantone Color Chart, one color at a time using a small eye dropper, brush or toothpick-like instrument until all the designs on that sheet of metal are color completed. This process is very delicate, as the enamel colors must not exceed the top of the excavation or it will bleed and run into another excavation and ruin the pin. Then the sheet is set aside to air dry. Once the sheet of metal containing the design has air dried, it is baked at approximately 450 degrees for 12-15 minutes. Remember, on the hard enamel pin, the pin had to be hand fired after each color was put on, requiring much individual handling. The colors are put in all the photo-etched pins on the metal sheet before the sheet is put into the oven, much like a pizza oven, to bake. When the sheet of metal containing the design cools, each individual pin is die cut to its custom contour. Then each pin, like the hard enamel, has the back attachment put on and is plated. The final step in a photo-etched epoxy covered pin is the coating of the pin with clear epoxy.
New or Soft Cloisonné Very similar in production to traditional cloisonné except that a special resin is utilized to provide colors instead of the standard cloisonné colors. Colors can be matched to Pantone Colors in this type of pin. The design is die struck into the same type and thickness of metal, a copper bronze metal surface, as in a true cloisonné pin. The cost of a new or soft cloisonné pin is very close to that of a cloisonné pin.
Die Struck Soft Enamel This type of pin is produced in a similar manner to cloisonné except that the colors are produced using actual Pantone Colors. The type and thickness of metal is also similar to a true cloisonné pin. The cost of the pin is about 8-10% more expensive than a Photo-Etched pin. Because of the softness of the upper surface of the pin you might want to use an epoxy cover on your pin.
Screen Printed or Offset Printed Screen Printed pins are produced the same as a Screen Printed shirt, except on a much smaller scale. Your design is burned onto different screens, one screen for each color used. Each screen is then laid onto the brass metal that is already cut to your design and the appropriate color is then applied until each pin is finished. With Screen Printing you can be charged separate "Printing Plate" charges, up to $30, for each color used.
Offset Printed pins are produced the same as Screen Printed pins except that only four colors are used and then blended to make the different colors in your design. You should never be charged for more than four colors for an Offset Printed pin.
PANTONE COLORS are used and you will need an epoxy cover on these pins. There is a higher minimum order level with these pins, usually 500 pins. The higher the purchase level, usually over 1,000 pins, the more the per pin price decreases.
Be sure to ask your Pinmaker for any extra charges, other than the pin cost, that you will be billed for, such as printing plate charges.
The Pin Man has "FREE" Printing Plate charges for the first four colors on all Screen Printed and Offset Printed pins.
Steel Pins This type of pin is one of the lowest cost of all the different types of pins available today. This type of pin is of "Die Struck" construction. The order minimum is 300 pins. The thickness of the metal is 1.0-1.2mm and Pantone Colors can be matched. The surface of a steel pin may be covered with epoxy. Again, at the higher purchase levels the price is very low.
The Pin Man also offers many types of Pins including the following:
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- Glitter Pins
- Glow in the Dark (luminous) Pins
- Combination Glow in the Dark and Glitter Pins
- "Spring" (bobble) Pins
- Image Magnifying Pins
- Multiple Piece Puzzle Pins
- Gem and Rhinestone Pins
- Magnet Pins
- Dangle Pins - interior and exterior dangles
- "Slider" Pins
- Pin Sets
- New "LED" Lighted Pins
- NEW Holographic Pins
Lighted Pins Lights (Blinkies) can be inserted into almost any type or style of pin from cloisonné to screen printed and steel. There are several different types of light battery boxes that can be attached to the back of the pins. A couple of types will have a very definite affect on where the lights are placed. The other types of battery boxes will have no affect at all on where the lights can be placed.
The Pin Man can design pins that have from 1 to 6 flashing lights, (lights that can be flashing at the same time or rotating at different times) without any overall affect on the design of the pin. The pin is designed, then the lights are placed in the appropriate places.
When trying to decide what type of design you want for your pin, think in terms of a central themeyour team or organization logo, a character or just a name. Build your pin design around and let all the elements work in conjunction with this central idea or theme. If you are having a hard time coming up with an idea, ask members of your team or organization to submit their ideas of what they think the pin design should look like. You can then take and use a little bit of each one to produce the final design. Be sure to submit your design to The Pin Man early in the design process, because a design that looks good on a T-shirt or on paper will not always work in metal without major modifications. We can advise you how well your original design will work in metal. The Pin man will allow you to use up to four colors at no extra charge. When placing colors in your design or in lettering, there is a concept that MUST be followedcolor can go on metal, or metal on colorcolor cannot go on color in small spaces.
The number one rule to follow with lettering is--Do not try to have too much lettering for the size of pin you are designing. The same rule is true with colored lettering as with other colors in your design--"color can go on metal, or metal on color--color cannot go on color. The "FONT" of the lettering is also of key importance in determining where the lettering can go and if there can be coloring in it.
The size of pin is determined primarily by the overall design of the pin. The more complicated and detailed the design, the larger the pin needs to be. If you try to crowd a complicated, detailed design into a small space, you will not only be unable to see your design in the finished pin, but you will also be very unhappy with yourself and your pin maker. There are two ways to make sure you are using the right size pin for your design. First, take your finished artwork to a photocopy machine and reduce your design to the size of the pin you want.
Look to see if all the design detail can be seen and all the lettering is legible. What you are seeing in the reduction is basically what your pin will look like when it is finished. The second way of making sure you are ordering the right size pin is to rely on the experience of your pin maker and listen to recommendations.
The way The Pin Man measures his designs are "ON THE SQUARE." The size is determined by the height or the width, whichever is greater, not the diagonal measurement. In the case of a round product the diameter will be used.
If, in the examples to the right above, the pins were measured on the Diagonal you would pay for a 1 3/4 inch pin in example No. 1 and a 2 1/4 inch pin in example No. 2. If, measured on the square, you would pay for a 1 3/8 inch in example No. 1 and a 2 inch in example No. 2. You save money while getting a much bigger pin.
Dangles have become very popular during the past few years. They range from a very simple ball hanging on a loop to a Panther being led on a chain. The biggest thing to remember about a dangle is "A Dangle is a Separate Pin." It is sized and priced the same as your primary pin.
My suggestion isif you are going to spend the extra money, make your dangle "Unique" not ordinary.
The "die" is what cuts out the exterior shape of your design. The "die" can be basic shape is a circle, square, or triangle or it can be an odd shape that does not require extra "cutting" dies. A "die" charge can range from $40 to $125 depending on the base metal, the size, and the intricate shape of the pin that is being made.
A "cut" can be anything from a deep cut in the exterior to a hole cut within the design. A "cutting" charge is usually about $20 per cut plus $.03 to $.05 per pin to clean and polish out the cut made in the metal.
The Pin Man has no quantity restrictions on our "FREE" die charges on all basic shape designs. Most pin companies will not let you remove dies from the factories. However, the dies will remain available for you exclusive use for 2 to 3 years.
Deciding whether or not to put a date on your pin is the easiest decision you will make. If you feel your organization will be able to trade, give away, or sell for a fund raiser all the pins that you are ordering, then put the current year on the pin. Many pin collectors prefer a date. However, if you feel that there is a chance that you will have some pins left for another year, do not put a date on the pins. There is nothing worse than having a lot of "last years" pins on hand.
The number of pins you order is based on how you are going to be using your pins. If your team is going to a large or regional tournament where there is a lot of pin trading, or to a national tournament, where pin trading has become almost as important as the game itself, you will want to order a much larger number of pins than if you just want a league pin. Also, remember in determining the size of your order that generally the lowest prices are for 3-5 week delivery. Orders can be done in as short as 2 weeks. However, there is the very high possibility of problems on this short of a time frame. The rule of thumb that I have discovered in discussions with many teams and organizations at national tournaments is that each player on your team should have 25-30 pins per girl for large or regional tournaments and 50-65 pins per girl for national or international tournaments. You will usually need 75-85 pins per girl for "ASA" Nationals. If your pin becomes a "Hot Trader", these numbers may not be enough. Be sure to consider the number of "Pin Trading" tournaments your team will be playing in when deciding on the number of pins to order. Don't get caught having traded all your pins before getting to nationals. However if you do get caught short, the Pin Man may be able to order your pins on a "Super Rush" program. One of the saddest sights I have seen in my travels to major tournaments is seeing players with either no pins to trade or an insufficient number of pins to trade.
The following is The Pin Man's procedure for ordering pins:
Step 1 - Mail or fax us a rough sketch, a concept or send a sample pin, of the design you want. This rough sketch is just thatI have received sketches on napkins all the way to professional camera ready artwork. Remember, pins are made of metal and have to be designed differently than designs for T-shirts or uniform jerseys.
Step 2 - Indicate on your rough sketch, the placement or wording and colors--up to 4 colors are included in the original cost of your pin. Additional colors can be used; they will cost .05 cents per color per pin for each additional color. Draw lines to where you want your colors, as we will be working with a black and white drawing, if you fax your artwork. If you email your artwork then you will need to tell us where the colors go or send us a color copy.
Step 3 - Show on the rough sketch you send what type of pin you want, with or without epoxy, extras such as dangles, rhinestones or lights.
Step 4 - Tell what size pin you think would be the right size for your design and how many pins you want to order.
Step 5 - After receiving your sketch or concept, either by email or fax, I will contact you to discuss putting your sketch/concept into actual pin artwork form and your pricing structure. The Pin Man has an artist who will take your sketch or concept and turn it into an actual pin design after receiving a $50 artwork deposit. This will generally take about a week depending on the time of year. The artwork deposit will be credited to the cost of your pins when you order your pins from Action Images and the Pin Man.
Step 6 - When your artwork is finished, I will fax you a working drawing, similar to the samples on the next page, or I will email you a color copy of the design artwork that will be sent to the factory in Taiwan/China. This artwork will have an approval block along with the size and pricing information. Give us the "Pantone Color" numbers and sign the approval block showing that you approve of the drawing, colors, artwork and have checked the order for accuracy. Return a copy of the signed artwork to Action Images along with your 50% deposit (required before your pins can be ordered).
Step 7 - Your pins will then be ordered from Taiwan or China. Depending on how fast you need your order, your pins will be scheduled to clear customs in 2 to 5 weeks and be shipped to you C.O.D. for the balance due, less your $50.00 artwork deposit.
A very important point to emphasize is to remind you that this complete ordering procedure, for regular price pins, takes from 3 to 5 weeks. This is from the time you give us your artwork until you have your finished pin in your hands. So give yourself plenty of time to have your pins made. Do not cut yourself so short in time that you MAY have to pay rush charges or "SUPER RUSH" charges on top of your normal pin cost. These charges can be quite expensive.
How to Contact Us:
2328 Dinwiddie Way
Elk Grove, CA 95758
Fax: (916) 684-9362
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